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“Freedom Brings Opportunity, Opportunity Makes Your Future”

29 Aug

My – and everyone’s – favorite line from Risky Business is when Curtis Armstrong’s character, Miles, is trying to convince a young Tom Cruise, i.e. Joel, to abandon his inhibitions, discard his fear: “Joel, you wanna know something? Every now and then say, “What the fuck.” What the fuck” gives you freedom. Freedom brings opportunity. Opportunity makes your future.” Joel, a model student and son, is reluctant. What will happen when he says, ‘What the fuck,’ when he chooses to be adventurous rather than the trait’s ugly and unexciting stepsister, tame?

And so it goes: with every day there is a choice to be made; and with every day in a new place, that choice is often one of these two extremes.  So yesterday, when I was confronted with the choice of studying for the three exams I have this coming week (tame) or renting a car to drive to a place called Durbanville to interview a neo-shaman from a group called The Southern White Tribe (adventurous), I chose the latter; I said “What the fuck” all day.

It started with the rental car. I vacillated between whether I should drive the rental car five minutes down the main road, and whether my Connecticut College friend should walk to my house and drive the car. I know how to drive, of course, but the hesitation was about driving on the left side of the road, something I had never done before. “What the fuck,” I said, and I boldly entered the vehicle.

And then, within two mere minutes of being in the rental car, I hit something . . . with the rental car. And I didn’t know what I hit. I still don’t. All I know is that I heard a noise, and then I heard the rest of the noises of the main road, amplified. I heard honking, yelling, alarms, sirens. And then, I imagined being arrested for a hit-and-run. I saw myself stalked and killed for destroying someone else’s car. I watched the police come down the main road with batons and guns and machetes, on the hunt for the idiot American who said “what the fuck” at the wrong time. Worse, even, I scripted the phone call home, the speech about paying for the rental car, and the other car, and my bail money. “I love you, Mom, but I’m not coming home in November.”

So, I called my Connecticut College friend: “You have to come now. I am pulled over in front of Shop Rite. I hit something with the car, you need to come now. Run.”

Insert heart palpitations.

Two minutes later: “Where are you. You need to come now. Run. Run faster, get here now. I am not fucking kidding.”

Insert heart palpitations.

I could barely get out of the car to assess the damage. Actually, I didn’t get out of the car to assess the damage at all; I was paralyzed by these images of my life ending in various ways.

And then, I saw my Connecticut College friend, covered in sweat, wearing clunky rain boots in the dry Cape Town atmosphere. I waved, because I was afraid she wouldn’t recognize me (I was wearing glasses). She sprinted over and I asked, “Can I get out of the car? Is it clear?”

She responded with an emphatic, “What the fuck Megan, is this what you’re talking about?” There was absolutely nothing wrong with the car. The retractable mirror had retracted inwards, and there were traces of black scuffing on the white exterior. “I can literally scratch this off with my finger. Look, you can’t see anything.”

Ok, driving a rental car isn’t adventurous. It isn’t having a house party, or having sex with a call girl on a train, or starting a risky business. But then, we actually had to take the damn thing to Durbanville to interview the neo-shaman. (I didn’t drive).

On the way, nothing looked familiar. We take comfort in the things that seem familiar, of course. Most lakes remind me of the lake I spent ten summers on at Camp Merrowvista. When I am in a new place, I see the faces of people I think I know. A different New England highway reminds me of the ones I have driven before. These things jog our memories, incite some kind of connection, and help us feel comfortable. But this new road, in this new city, in this new country, on this new continent, was unfamiliar.

It was like being a child again, when everything was new. You have no memory to recall anything, so your mind can’t make any kind of connections. You are afraid, and inquisitive. In this regard, choosing to revert back to this child-like consciousness is adventurous; you are effectively displacing yourself from what you know and rebirthing yourself in an unfamiliar world. It is unnerving, and scary, and rousing.

We made it to the neo-shaman who lived in a way that was nothing less than admirable: one moment at a time; taking – what he considers – the great truths from every religion; understanding origin; celebrations with family. He gave some ironic advice: “If you think you are going to get in the car in the morning and get into a car accident, then you will get in the car and get into a car accident.”

After our pseudo-enlightenment, we started the journey back to Cape Town, but the journey was cut short because the rental car stopped working. It was getting dark.

We called the rental car company’s phone number. No answer.

We called the rental car company’s emergency towing number. No answer.

We called the South African version of triple A. “You don’t have a membership? Sorry, we can’t help you.”

Zach, from Wash U. left to try to find a gas station. Frances and I stayed in the car. We watched groups of men come and go, wary of their intentions, watching every movement. I saw newspaper headlines of every brutal South African reality: murder; rape; car-jacking. In this moment, I felt like a child again, with little idea of what to do. It was no longer an adventure, though.

A tow truck. A tow truck, and Zach is in it! But it is going to be expensive. “This is an emergency. This is why parents give us emergency credit cards. This is okay. I don’t care how expensive it is, this is no longer safe.”

And then we met Lindley, our guardian angel, who changed the price from R850 to R200, who towed our rental car, who fixed our rental car, and who gave us his phone number so that we could call him when we were home safe. He took us to a gas station in a place called “Brooklyn,” a comfortable name, a safe connotation, a place with a name I respond to with nothing but love. He acted like a parent, the person I miss the most, and the person with unconditional love, even if you hit something with a rental car.

“What the fuck, let’s get a rental car in South Africa,” or “what the fuck, let’s have a house party and see what happens” is precarious, at best; but these fears of displacement, of discomfort, cannot paralyze a person in fear, or in tameness. So when I got back to my familiar suburb, I sat with my familiar friends from Connecticut College to plan a road trip – via rental car –to Namibia for eight days.

“What the fuck.”

 
 

xoxo, Robinson Crusoe

17 Aug

It has been some time since I last posted; time has flown.

My first English assignment for the course Romance to Realism was to read Defoe’s Robinson Crusoe. My professor really hyped it up before we started the novel: “This is the first British novel! The 18th century marks when great works of literature are no longer are part of a universal truth. Novels become individual!”

Of course her banter about Crusoe traveling to far away lands to discover his very identity, and his identity as Western, reminded me of myself, and my motives about traveling to South Africa.

Am I here to discover “the other” in order to discover myself, as Crusoe does?

Am I writing this blog to elucidate those answers, just like how Crusoe details the mediocrity of his everyday life in his journal?

As the trajectory of my journey here has progressed, and as I have – slowly but surely – read more of this painfully slow novel, I cannot help but identify more and more with this wary character. Granted, I am not enslaving anyone as Crusoe does, but my actions are quintessentially Western, epitomizing the very result of colonialism, imperialism.

I can go to the District 6 museum as a curious traveler; I can travel to Robben Island and take photos to share with Facebook, “oh look at all of the great, cool, cultural things I am doing in South Africa”; I can spend my parent’s money in order to see a township or visit an “authentic” African market; and then I can quietly retreat back to the comforts of my suburb in Rondebosch, the comforts of my suburb in Katonah, ultimately.

Who am I helping and/or exploiting while I am here? Is it good and right to look, and stare, to be fascinated, horrified, and disgusted?

* * *

Then at the same time, when I am not consumed by this project to figure it out, to figure myself out and my place here, I have been discovering and learning and not feeling guilty about my whiteness, my privilege, my enjoyment.

For Women’s Day weekend (yes, they celebrate a day just for women here!) I travelled with five other Connecticut College ladies to Stellenbosch, or South Africa’s version of wine country. These ladies include Emily Sollars, Amanda Nadile, Bitsy Whipple, Frances Deamer-Phillips, and Ashley Crutchfield. To those of you reading this from Conn, you can laugh about how eclectic – or random– a group of people we are. I wear more black than they all do. I am the only Jew. I don’t play a sport; I have never played a sport.

Anyways, we, particularly I, enjoyed a day of wine tasting, cheese tasting, and chocolate tasting. I cannot remember the last time I indulged quite like that. The justification: “I am abroad! It doesn’t matter how many wines I taste!”

Shortly after traveling to four different vineyards, we arrived at Spier, i.e. the wine tasting, indulgence-indulging Mecca of Stellenbosch. We skipped over the wine, and instead, paid R200 (about $30 USD) to pet a cheetah at a cheetah sanctuary. Now, when you are placed in the enclosure of a cat-predator, it is vital (vital, not only essential or important, but necessary to the continuance of life) to listen carefully to instructions. So, when you all go to pet cheetahs one day, learn from my mistakes: back away from the cheetah when the instructor tells you to; do not rest on both knees (you need to be able to quickly react if the cheetah stirs); and do not wander around the cheetah pen, especially when the instructor tells you to stay behind her.  Typically, following these instructions requires sobriety, which does not follow naturally from a day of wine tasting, starting at 10:00 a.m.

* * *

So, I have been here now almost one month. More about living with Europeans, doing touristy things, and living in a transitional democracy to come.

Time has flown!

xoxo,

Robinson Crusoe

 
 

They say:

27 Jul

They say that going abroad is an experience where you should step outside of your comfort zone: go to a different country; live amongst different types of people; speak a different language; everything should be different; discomfort is important.

I knew I wanted to go abroad to South Africa, but I had to decide which program: Semester Study Abroad at the University of Cape Town or an S.I.T. program in South Africa? I kept this expectation, of stepping outside of your comfort zone, in mind when deciding. The S.I.T. program includes homestays with an upper class white family, in a township, and with a rural, black family. The program is meant to illustrate the scope of lifestyles and the reality of inequality in South Africa.

The University of Cape Town program takes place at a university that, at first glance, could be an American or European university. As mentioned in my last post, I live in, for all intents and purposes, a ‘white’ suburb with one young woman from Hong Kong, five Europeans, and another Connecticut College student. The demographics of our quaint home at 7 Christow Road certainly do not reflect a South African reality.

Despite the ostensible similarities between my lifestyle at home and my lifestyle here, I am uncomfortable. Or rather, I am experiencing discomfort, which has a more positive connotation than “being uncomfortable.” This discomfort does not exist in a changed reality in terms of socioeconomic status, because even if I had chosen the S.I.T route, I would never truly understand destitute and racial inequality; I would live the experience knowing that in a few short months I would resume studying at the 5th most expensive college in the United States.

Rather, the discomfort exists – right now – in being so conscious of my identity as American and as white. I wrote an article for the Voice last year discussing my identity as a woman. Here, today, the way I view myself and the way others view me is different; thus, the way I view myself has also changed.

However this changed consciousness has not changed me for the worse, and it has not stopped me from stepping out of my comfort zone in other ways:

1)   This past Saturday, I woke up early to brave Cape Town’s microclimate on a hike up Devil’s Peak. Now, I have spent many-a-summer hiking on the Appalachian Trail, but African hiking is different: There are no blazes to guide you, and apparently, hiking also means rock climbing without harnesses. One misstep and you could fall off the mountain. (I’m not kidding).

2)   Three of my four courses have between 100-300 students. I went to a high school of 1500, and as we know, Connecticut College is practically the same size.

3)   I am in South Africa! I am in Africa! I rarely use exclamation points in my writing, but I can still barely believe where I am and I need some new punctuation. (!)

!!!!!!!!!!!!

 
 

T.I.N.C.

22 Jul

Click-hello Connecticut College, friends, family, ladies, and gentlemen. Had I gone abroad to Europe or South America, I would have started this blog with a familiar “Hola” or “Bonjour.” However since I am currently stationed in Cape Town, South Africa, I began this entry with a click and a hello. South Africa recognizes 11 official languages and English is the most widely used, but I have also heard murmurs of a click language called Xhosa in the grocery store, as well as some Afrikaans (but I don’t know any of that language yet, so English plus some clicks will have to do for now).

Anyways, I am Megan Reback. I study Government and English at Connecticut College. About a week ago, I travelled over eighteen hours to South Africa to study abroad at the University of Cape Town for four and a half months. And to answer your initial questions: No, I did not see the final world cup game, or any of the world cup for that matter; Yes, I know that there is a lot of crime here. There are certainly reminders of both.

To address the first point on the world cup: I hear vuvuzelas every day. Our orientation leaders use them to get our attention, and being able to blow one is practically a rite of passage in South Africa (as a former trumpet player, I can!). One kid from Trinity tried and ended up producing what sounded like an exasperated cobra hiss. After his failed attempt, he sauntered quickly up the lecture hall stairs and fell. Between this and Americans’ tendency to scream (or “squeak” as my European roommates call it) while out at bars, getting friendly, and getting too drunk, the USA has become the brunt of one too many jokes. I guess it is deserved.

To the latter point on crime: TIA, as they say. Or, This Is Africa. But it is also an African-European hybrid. The city’s infrastructure and the white suburbs are all reminiscent of Dutch and British colonialism. This gives the façade of safety and security. However, the townships, gross unemployment, and pervasive poverty are all very African. The legacy of apartheid is alive and well here, so there is crime.

I saw a carjacking the other night. I sort of did a double take and walked away quickly with my group of ten. My house is in one of those white suburbs and is surrounded by a fence with spikes and barbed wire. There are burglar bars, an intercom, and several locks. Some people in my program have already been mugged, and a woman was stabbed in broad daylight just a few miles away.

I wish I could say that this has nothing to do with me and will not affect me, but this reality will guide my decisions and behavior while I am here (so family, no need to worry). In other words, TINC. Or, This is NOT Conn.

I actually have only felt unsafe once, and it had nothing to do with the threat of petty crime. I went to a harbor town a few train stops away called Kalk Bay. The fish market there reminded me of a place and time I have never been a part of, and the commerce was humble and sound. We watched seals playing in the water. It was all very quintessential-harbor-town until a seal hopped onto a step leading out from the water. Tourists gathered closer to admire its surprising move. Then, its massive body landed on the next step. And then the next, and then there were screams and it joined the humans on land and hopped toward a woman. Hopped is almost too friendly of a word because its move was horrifying. Here is a picture of the seal-criminal:

Classes start next Monday! I will write again. For now, enjoy the rest of summer, the job hunt, or the job. I will work on the vuvuzela.

 
 

Elektrichka

18 Mar

A couple weeks ago, we cut classes short to make the 2pm elektrichka that runs from little old Vladimir to good and famous Moscow. I don’t really understand what elektrichka means, but it was a train. Like Amtrack, only shittier. Like Amtrack, you don’t have an assigned seat, and it runs along a designated route, and it stops at about 200 places between Vlad and Moscow (like between New London and Boston). Only the non-assigned seats are not so comfortable. They’re basically cushioned benches, with none of that designated “this is a seat for one person” bullshit. You could fit three or four people to a bench, but most people sit as only two. You face others. Lots of people have to ride backwards. It’s too bad. It’s not as fast or smooth as the Amtrack. Jerky and bumpy and lumpy and you can feel the rails passing underneath you. People have scratched words into the windows with keys or knives or coins. I can’t read them. They might be Russian. Might be English. Either way, I don’t know what they say. And they’re always confusing, alphabet wise. It could be hecop or несор (which would sound like nesor) or some secret invented alphabet. I wish I knew. Not because it matters, but because if I knew, then I could tell you about it.

Anyway, we clambered on this rusty green train. We peeled off our monstrous coats and heavy scarves. We whipped out books, journals, ipods, and pencils. As the elekrichka started creeping away from the station, someone started playing the trumpet. BADLY. I felt sad for him, at the time, because he was obviously homeless and hungry, but all I could think was “please stop” and all I could do was turn up my music. And then, several minutes later, he stopped and made his way down the car, collecting donations or alms or wages or whatever you want to call it. And that’s when I realized he was blind. And I felt even more sad for him and for myself. Because I was so frustrated by his playing, so irritated by it, and yet it was his livelihood. It fed him. But it was awful. And I had no change accessible. It’s times like those when you’re pissed off at people for creating awful grating noises and yet your stomach sinks to the bottom of your torso and hides behind your bladder screaming “I love garbage and filth and waste! Because it’s better than living with YOU!” that you genuinely loath yourself. When you know it would be wonderful to be full of compassion, but you’re not. And your moral self scolds you, yet your brain knows full well that it’s just the way you react to ugly sounds.

After he left, I scribbled aimlessly in my journal and listened to music and hoped for sleep but knew it wouldn’t come (because who’s tired at 3pm? People who haven’t slept, of course, but I had slept.) I noticed lots of people walking through the cabin. I didn’t understand why. Where were they going? Not standing up to catch their stop. Not smoking cigarettes. There are no bathrooms, so they can’t be going for a piss (okay, men can, but nobody hung out on the threshold between cars.) Where were they going? I turned around and noticed that some people were making their way down the car, checking tickets. Apparently, a lot of Russians take the elektrichka for free. Not from Vladimir to Moscow, because there you have to scan your tickets or the militsia get you, but between the other stops. They’re not supposed to; it’s not like communist leftovers from the USSR. They just do because they can. And they scramble away from the ticket people, hurrying to some cabin, getting off at the next stop and circling back to cars they know the ticket people have already checked. Okay. Mad trainhoppers who aren’t really hopping. Indeed, lots of them are in heels and that would just be fucking dangerous. But still!

So there are beggers and trainhoppers and drinking Russians (lots bring their own beer or vodka or both…probably…I only saw beer and vodka separately). The guy across the central isle drank. But only milk…or maybe kefir. He wrote a lot and read several different books. I thought he was pretty curious. Obviously mad as can be, but curious. That’s the thing about crazy Russians. And Russians in general. They read. Often. And they write, too. I watched him scribble and doodle for a while out of the corner of my eye. He left and came back a few times. I don’t know what he was doing because he wasn’t gone long enough for a cigarette. Or he was gone too long for a cigarette. Maybe he was just being mad.

So I settled into the elektrichka. It was nothing luxurious, but it was comfortable enough. I stopped watching the people around me, because they were all the same. The girls I was sitting with were talking about abortion and there was no way I was joining in on that. Behind me Drew was talking to Kelli about his relationship. There was definitely no way I was joining in on that. So ladida listening to music. And out of nowhere the guy across the aisle handed me something and said something that I didn’t catch. It was a note, and it said:

Moscow town

metro neim

PARTiZANSKY

Партизанское влево

Вернисак

балкон

Территория СССР.

SSSR TeRRiTORY

BLOSHiNNi_RiNOK

Блошинный Пынок

Балкон:

WeLCOME

Russia

OLD SiNK,

KLOUS.

I don’t know what that means. I showed it to the girls I was sitting with and they didn’t know what it meant either. Then he said “eta reklama” (which means “it’s an advertisement”). So I’m assuming he was telling me to go to the bloshinni rinok (market) to buy things. But I’m not so sure. I gave him a little thank-you smile because he was mad and harmless, I could tell (he was drinking milk).

I went back to my music and my journal. And then he handed me something else. It was a drawing of a girls face and at the top it said (in Russian) “I write what? The truth. The truth I write!” And under the girl it said (in Russian) “I am not Picasso, Picasso I am not. Poet Zem-Loi.” And then a whole bunch of Russian that I can’t decipher or understand. And the girls I was sitting with were insisting that it was a drawing of me. Maybe it was. I can’t tell. Either way, I gave him that same little thank-you smile because he was mad and harmless and interesting in that I-could-make-up-stories-about-you kind of way.

Shortly thereafter, our first wandering salesman came through. I can’t remember what he was selling, but I can remember pitying him. It’s got such a negative connotation pity. But he spends his days walking up and down the train selling something useless so that he can earn his livelihood. I wished something better for him, but know that it probably just fell on wasted sound waves. Another salesman came through. And another. And Old Sink Klous got off the train and an adorable little boy wearing a big suede coat that was fastened with an old-mans belt got on with his grandpa to take his place. The grandpa sang along with the accordion player (who thankfully was quite good), and the little boy got excited about giving the accordion player change. He was carrying grandpa’s suitcase.

Then they got off, and another salesman came through. I was sitting at the front of the cabin, so I got all close-ups of these salesmen’s products. This guy was selling something red and plastic. I was listening to my music and not him, so I didn’t know what this red plastic thing could be. Then he started demonstrating something on the back of my seat. I was all spaced out and thought nothing of it until I noticed that the girl across from me was giving me some bizarre wide-eyed freaked out look. So I turned around. And there was a stupidly sharp knife in my face. Like barely three inches away.

He was selling knife sharpeners and had to demonstrate how well they worked. Inches from the back of my skull. Eventually he stopped talking about how simple his little red contraption worked and started demonstrating how sharp his knife was by slicing newspapers. I was only glad that brain matter and blood and maybe bits of bone weren’t seeping out of my skull.

Nothing else eventful happened after that. Some guy came around selling maps. More people ran away from the ticket-checkers. I had to pee. Painfully. It was the worst I’ve had to pee ever. And the elektrichka goes bump, thump, wump. Oh it was wonderful. I got to pay 20roubles (~60cents) to use the bathroom in the train station. It was okay because there was SOAP (rare in toilets) and toilet paper (that you had to bring into the stall with you, because it was in dispensers mounted on the wall outside the stall…) But I peed. And it was relieving and everything was lovely. Sort of. It was snowing in Moscow. Everything was covered in pretty white glitter. And I still had my brain.

 

What Vikings do when it gets cold

18 Feb

Back home in D.C. and Conn when it gets really cold or snows, it’s a big deal. Snow plows line the roads ready to push, salt and sand away anything that might be a little slippery. I recently received an email from the Office of College Relations to “exercise caution” and  ”call Physical Plant at to report any areas of concern” after a snowfall in New London. Here in Sweden, the only snow-plows people care about are the ones that clear the freshly fallen snow off the 20 or so inches of ice covering the lake so that they can skate for miles and take in the beauty of a white Swedish winter. Every year, the local long-distance skating team organizes a 80 km (50 mile) race aptly named the “Vikingarannet” (The Viking rout)  from the university town I am studying at, Uppsala, to Stockholm city. When I heard about this event, I thought it sounded like a great way for me to embrace the winter weather and get more in touch with my Swedish roots. I guess I didn’t quite understand how far 80 km is…

I prepared for my epic skate as any self-respecting Swedish student would – by attending a traditional Swedish “gasque” dinner party (fancy clothes, good food, and of course, lots of vodka and singing). The next morning, while listening to ABBA blaring over the loudspeakers at Vikingarannet’s start line five hours later, I noticed that many local competitors were giving me strange looks  as I laced up my hockey skates. Apparently Swedes have specialty long-distance skates similar to the ones Apolo Anton Ohno has been using in Vancouver the past week. They also don’t think it’s cool to wear hockey jerseys (feeling some regret for missing out on the 2010 CCCP vs Coast Guard hockey games, I had decided to proudly don my CAMELS shirt). When I reached the first rest stop after some 15 miles where you could briefly get blueberry soup and chocolate bars, I understood why my skates weren’t ideal. Their short blade clearly wasn’t designed to smoothly glide over all the cracks and bumps that 4,000 skaters competing against one another creates. Never the less, I kept going, and with legs burning, I triumphantly crossed the Stockholm finish line in 6 hours, 44 minutes and 47 seconds. I had gained a new appreciation for skaters who think the only “sticks” that should be held while on skates are modified ski poles ending in sharp spikes used to dig into the ice and push a skater forward. I also learned how the modern inhabitants of Viking Land approach extremely cold weather: it doesn’t have to be an inconvenience. I mean hey, I got to Stockholm without having to pay for a train ticket.

 

Français, s’il vous plaît.

24 Jan

If there’s one thing I don’t like about the French, it’s that they speak English.  Actually, that is a gross generalization.  As I have heard from Camels in other parts of the country, most Provinciaux (Parisians’ name for those Français who have the misfortune to live outside of Paris) have the dignity to speak solely in their mother tongue.  Not Parisiens (or Parisiennes).  A diligent and enthusiastic student of the French language, I often approach Parisians on the streets or in boutiques with an earnest effort to utter a phrase that vaguely resembles something a French kindergartener might have no trouble asking.  And, invariably, I am met with something like “Yes, the sandwich is nine euros” or “I don’t know where you are talking about” in heavily accented but accurately worded English.  Each time, I persevere; stumbling along with jumbled French until I have exhausted the diction my limited French vocabulary allows me, I am forced to revert to English, my foreign language skills exposed as markedly inferior to those of my French counterparts.

However, we were told during our “Cultural Awareness” indoctrination, these linguistic flip-flops are not a display of malcontent on the part of the French.  Instead, they are trying to be “helpful.”  In the past, we were told, the French have been notoriously stereotyped for their heavy accent and general inability to speak foreign languages (among other things). (See Le Pew, Pepé et al.)  Laughing at my frustrated attempts at simple communication, they often ask me where I’m from.

“Canada,” I reply.

Pictured: The French

 

Bye Bye Beijing…

13 Dec

I can’t believe how fast 4 months have gone by but tomorrow evening I’ll be leaving Beijing and heading back to America.
My last week here was jam-packed, filled with final exams and papers and fitting in last minute sight-seeing activities.

Although I was here for 4 months, I still feel that Beijing is too big to see everything but I think I did a good job in seeing all that I could and do most of the things on my to-do list.

We had a fancy graduation banquet on Friday celebrating the end of Finals and our program ending, we all got diplomas, thanked our professors, took pictures and said formal goodbyes. I also won first place in our program-wide photo contest for one of my photos I submitted from my whole China trip and won some prize money! It will be on the CET website soon.

At the CET Banquet w/my Chinese professor

At the CET Banquet w/my Chinese professor

Then we all went out for one last night of KTV all together, we rented out a whole room for about 3 hours, sand out hearts out and partied, it was pretty wild.

I had one last dinner with all of my friends tonight, my last dinner in China at one of the best Hunan restaurants near our campus. It was fun, and of course we took a huge group pic (as always) and stressed out the fuwuyuans at the restaurant with all of our cameras.

Last group dinner

Last group dinner

This was by far one of the best experiences in my life; I’ve made so many great friends and had some really interesting experiences. It will be very bittersweet when I board that plane tomorrow and leave China, a country I’ve strangely come to love and understand.

I’m excited to come home and see my family and friends, and share with everyone my stories and my pictures, but I know I’m going to miss Beijing and the great experiences I had here.

Well, my room is bare, my suitcases are packed, my sad goodbyes have been said, and I’m getting ready to leave the land of dirty tap water, people who can’t form lines, and markets where you can bargain your heart away.
Hopefully I’ll be able to come back to China this summer or sometime soon.
Thanks for reading about my adventures in Beijing….it was a trip I’ll never forget.

 
 

Laissez-faire

09 Dec

Like many people with no one to answer to, I’ve been pushing the envelope on what I’ll let myself get away with. Laundry tossed unfolded into the dresser, empty but un-disposed-of food boxes, and a collection of beer bottles beside the trash can that impedes my ability to open the door are symptoms of my decline. My aversion to the trash situation here in Room 207 is but one, loosely heaped piece of a larger puzzle.

A growing issue

A growing issue

At the root of this particular heap is a mix of fear and confusion on my part (confearsion). Germany’s commitment to recycling, much like many of its hairstyles, is both severe and modern. Paper, plastic, green, brown, and white glass, compost, and regular trash are separated and collected on an alternating weekly basis. I think the compost really gives the system that “wow” factor.

I understand compost and non-compost, and I think I have a fairly solid grasp of what sorts of things recycle. Beyond differentiating between brown and dark green glass, my issues stem from aligning the rest of my recyclables with the abstract purities of paper and plastic. This is largely a problem of mixed media. I’m fairly sure my flattened milk cartons are cardboard, which is like paper, but each one has a screw top, which is definitely plastic. Do I need to remove the plastic spout from the carton and recycle them separately? Exactly how paper is paper?

I’ve tried surreptitiously peeking into the various bins, looking for contentiously comprised items that I, too, would like to send away from my apartment and out of my life. Has anyone else thrown out a Nutella jar – glass body, plastic lid? I never find what I’m looking for, and short of being shooed away with a broom, it doesn’t get much worse than being caught picking through the communal trash, even if it is just the recycling. I still have my dignity.

Beyond the question of where to begin is the more troubling problem of where to stop. Does used plastic wrap get recycled? Should I wash out the plastic container my chicken breast came in? What about the half-peeled away pane of plastic on top of it? Worse than separating incorrectly would be failing to separate sufficiently. This concern leads me to repurposing trash, filling egg cartons and margarine tubs with orange rinds and broccoli stumps, to be taken out to the compost, paper, and plastic bins, respectively. I find myself sticking empty cans down into the middle of my trash bag, for fear of them pressing their telltale ridges against the outer wall of plastic as I tie a knot in the top, exposing me before God and the Chancellor as a poor recycler.

I don’t want to get a reputation as some sort of maladjusted hoarder. I never meant to collect such a mess, at this point a veritable Island of Misfit Trash. I’ve been forced into a life of inaction and lies by the task of abstracting concrete recyclables. My problems are metaphysical. I didn’t choose to live this way.

 
 

Telling the Truthlet

06 Dec

Sometimes the moment a problem is identified is the same moment in which it becomes a problem. This was true in September when I walked into my friend’s apartment, looked at the ceiling and mused, “Is that light fixture off-center?” (It was like the electrician threw a dart to determine where the wiring should exit the plaster.) It was also true when the same friend said in October, “I haven’t seen a single bagel place in Germany.” Problems are everywhere, as it turns out; we just need to look for them.

They do have croissants here, which they call Hörnchen, a name that isn’t as pretty. My friend Mark tried for weeks to convince me of the existence of a sort of “German bagel.” This, according to him, is something called belegtes Brötchen, which is a halved roll, filled with lettuce, tomato, cheese, and some kind of meat. This is a sandwich. I tried to explain this, but he said simply, “We don’t say that.”

The Christian name of this apparent specialty comes from belegen, to fill or occupy (see: “beleaguer”), and the diminutive of Brot, meaning bread, which translates loosely to “breadlet.” There is no such thing as a German bagel. There is only bread, occupied by sandwich ingredients, constituting something other than a sandwich – an occupied breadlet.

I have to forgive the syntactic stubbornness of German, if only for the sake of its aversion to vagueness. For instance, I recently learned that German fairy tales end with what translates to, “And if they haven’t died, then they’re still living today,” which is true. It’s a conditional suitable to people who have, for any length of time, been alive. Compare this to “And they all lived happily ever after,” and one finds an almost embarrassing idealism. Really? Every one of the people in the story lived happily, forever, after the resolution of this conflict?

Think of all these German young’uns, listening to bedtime stories about Hansel and Gretel and Little Red Riding Hood (the real versions), and taking a little truth with their fiction. I envy them, I think. At the very least, I imagine the German Prince Charming has higher standards as far as personality goes. “Snow White, girl, you’ve been asleep for like eight years, what are we gonna talk about?” (In Germany one in ten Princes Charming is homosexual.)

It’s the scratching away of the “happily ever after” veneer that makes it a problem. We who were raised on it find princes, many of them charmless, and if we’re smart, decide not to wait to be rescued. We learn not to take the summary too literally, short of becoming pessimistic, lest we remain naïve. A German fairy tale ending doesn’t paint the umpteen years beyond the end of a story, fictional or otherwise, with the mile-wide brush of good times being had by all, forever.

But this is why the Germans don’t have fairy tales; they have Märchen – “storylets.” Precisely what they are, but somehow making fewer promises, shortening the jumpable distance to conclusions.

 
 
 

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