Though it’s located just a short walk from Conn’s southern boundary, the exterior view of Lee’s Oriental Market strangely resembles a retail establishment from… oh, about 1953, give or take a few years. The phrase “mom-and-pop store” may come to mind, totally unbidden, at the sight of the clean but weather-beaten pale blue colonial-style house at 432 Williams Street. Only a timid, apparently hand-painted sign is there to assure you that you have in fact arrived at an emporium of Asian foodstuffs and not at some unwitting person’s modest home.
Once inside, though, the grocery store lives up to its unfortunately dated name with aplomb. Every shelf, bin and freezer in the sole room overflows with food from different areas of Asia. (China, Japan, Korea and the Philippines are particularly well-represented.) Unless you directly ask for assistance, the market’s pleasant employees will essentially leave you alone to browse the selection, which includes — but definitely is not limited to — frozen dumplings and dumpling ingredients, teabags, instant noodles, special holiday foods, cookies, snack crackers, canned goods, bottled teas, energy drinks, soup mixes, bagged rice, noodles ready to eat right out of the bag, even ice cream treats. (On the day of my visit, there was also a selection of beautiful ceramic dishware on sale for a special discount, but this appeared to be a temporary special.)
My shopping companion, fellow Japanese student Britney Fernandez ’16, and I had originally set out for Lee’s on a mission: to find ourselves some mochi (Japanese rice cakes that are traditionally eaten at New Year’s, but also throughout the rest of the year). Thanks to the store’s compact size, we located the goodies, of which there was a surprisingly wide range of available varieties, in no time. As we were in no rush, we then happily proceeded to get sidetracked by the store’s many other snack food offerings.
For less than sixteen dollars, I got to take home eleven different treats to try. (While we’re on the money subject, be sure to bring your cash to Lee’s: they will only accept a credit card if your total comes to more than ten dollars, and you must buy at least twenty dollars’ worth of merchandise if you wish to pay with a debit card.) The first package I opened — Chinese black bean cakes — proved to be somewhat of a disappointment, although perhaps I should have expected as much from a long-refrigerated bakery item. The cakes’ pastry exteriors and fillings of bean paste both seemed far too dry, particularly the pastry portion. If you also try this item, be sure to open and eat it over a surface that can easily be cleaned: the cakes will crumble and flake to the point of absurdity. Beyond the issue of messiness, the overall flavor came across as flat and not quite sweet enough for my taste.
The lotus seed moon cakes I sampled next represented an improvement, for they were moist and lightly satisfying, with a very pleasant fruity aftertaste. Next up were savory cracker nuts made in the Philippines, saturated with a garlic flavor that was absolutely addictive. I am certain I will return to Lee’s very soon for more of this snack, which offers an invigorating combination of crunchy, nutty and, well, garlicky flavor that is just perfect for staying alert during those study sessions that stretch into the wee hours. However, a word of caution to those who may be sensitive to MSG (monosodium glutamate). According to the ingredients list, that “flavor enhancer” plays what may well be a major role in my newfound passion for garlic cracker nuts.
And while the outside view of Lee’s Oriental Market may produce an impression tinged by decidedly mid-century motifs, the availability inside of organic foods shows that the store’s proprietors are more than comfortable catering to twenty-first century clients. My choice of USDA-certified organic roasted peeled chestnuts turned out to be not only tasty, but also inexpensive: just two dollars and thirty-nine cents for a convenient single-serving pack.
Having now tried spicy dried fruit from Thailand for the first time, I can state with confidence that the delicacy is a secret that has been far too well kept – from me, at least. Who would have known that chili powder could so deliciously bring out the tanginess of dried tamarind? Tiny rice crackers flavored with coconut milk, also originating from Thailand, were yet another clear winner. As I munched, I kept thinking that they could be described as Asian madeleines, so delicate, buttery and lightly sweet were they.
Despite its relatively small size and modest appearance, multiple trips to Lee’s Oriental Market are clearly indicated if one wishes to fully experience the grocery store’s impressive array of fresh, frozen and ready-to-eat foods. Whether you rave about ramen or can’t live without aloe juice, Lee’s Oriental Market can help satisfy your craving — or discover a totally new one — right here in New London.
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